Film and paper recommendation depends on what kind of image you want. For my personal preference (rich shadow and bright midtone and highlight contrast) I recommend TMX in Ilford Microphen 1+1. I use Agfa Multicontrast Premium most of the time. In contrasty scene, you may have to burn in a lot, but you'll get good local contrast and rich details in both shadow and highlights.(posted 8363 days ago)One of the previous post mentioned that FB papers tone better. That's generally true but this Agfa MCP tones very well.
Another reason I like Agfa MCP is its very bright paper base. Excellent for landscapes, although not ideal for some portraits. (However, I like it for portraits with some toning, although toning won't change the base color.)
I don't recommend citric acid stop bath. Citric acid has fairly strong acidity, and if you make it weak to prevent pH from going too low, then the bath dies quickly. For film, use fresh plain water and agitate well for 1 min. For paper, use either acetic acid + sodium acetate buffered stop bath (like Sprint Block stop bath) or boric acid stop bath (50g boric acid in 1 liter of water - it may need warm water or long time to dissolve). Boric acid is a bit more costly but gives off no odor.
I strongly recommend Ilford Multigrade Rapid Fixer. Excellent stable process in short time, good processing capacity, easy to wash off fixer, good availability, low cost, low odor, etc. It smells but not as much as most other fixers. Unopend bottles are good for a few years so stock up if your local stores don't carry it.
More details can be found in my earlier postings in this forum.
Finally, these are what I use after some years of personal research and experiment, so not just "a good place to start" but also choices you might like and stick with for years (although film, film developer and paper strongly depend on your preference of image qualities).