I use a grey card and fill the frame giving it different exposures with a wide range separated by 1/2 stop. You need around 10 or so negatives to do this. The one poster is correct in that after awhile you can spot a zone 1 negative (0.1) without a densitometer. The next part is a little tricky and there you need a densitometer: you have to find the zone VIII negative. I target a density of 1.05 - 1.15, which I am not sure is correct... The zone VIII negative will determine your development time. I guess I am still in a learning curve.(posted 8258 days ago)
FWIW, I read a good post once on this board that someone just used a light meter to view the negatives on a light box and then measured the EV difference between the difference negatives as a way to make a cheap densitometer. I may try this next time to see how accurate this method is.