See-sawing in the dark has its hazardous. It worked ok for the old ortho films because you could leave on the red safelight and see what you are doing. You have to develop panchromatic films in the dark. That's why daylight developing tanks are so popular.(posted 8743 days ago)I'd recommend that you get a decent metal tank and a 120 SS reel(s). You will need to practice loading a dummy roll on to the reel. When you get the hang of it, I would recommend the following procedure:
Unroll the exposed film until you can feel the loose end of the film. Then take this end and put it into the spring retaining clip. Feed the film onto the reel, checking each side of the reel for any film that you can feel is sticking out of the reel. This will quickly reveal any misloading and you can back up and get the film into the proper spiral before continuing. When you get to the taped end of the film, just pull if off. 120/220 came easily be crimped and you get black half-moons usually in the middle of the best negative.
I use this technique for both 120/220 and 35mm. Doing it this way minimizes any contact with the emulsion from your hand or other surfaces. With 35mm, I leave the leader out on the exposed cartridge and cut off the leader and make a couple of corner cuts at the end of the trimmed film. I start loading in the room light and as soon as I have established that the 35mm film is feeding correctly, I kill the light and finish loading in the dark. I save a lot of effort getting the film started right with this method. You can't do this(start loading in the light) with 120/220.