I'm probably less technical than most here, but my thinking is that porcelain tones are placed on the straight line wheras compressed bright tones are on the shoulder. Try shooting someone in dark clothes and increase exposure to make the skin tones darker on the neg. For inspiration, check this:(posted 8484 days ago)http://www.smallstudio.com/eolo/
In the UK, David Bailey became famous with bright, almost bleached out skin tones. His assistant, John Swannell, later beacame famous with beautiful grey porcelain tones. You pays your money and....