AGFA-100, What film developer?

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Greetings! I was wondering if any of you who have experience with AGFA-100 could tell me just how the various developers work with this film? I am doing some testing with the film and was going to start with Rodinal. Any input appreciated! Howard

-- Howard Posner (hposner1@swarthmore.edu), April 04, 1998

Answers

Check out the Massive development chart. You should be able to find a=just about any combination of film and chemical you want. I don't know how they found all this or how reliable it is, but it should at least provide a goos starting point for you.

-- Daryl Hiebert (dhiebe@po-box.mcgill.ca), April 04, 1998.

I found Agfa 100 & Rodinal to be one of the worst combinations I came across when I tested a dozen films and several developers. Try Delta 100 & Xtol for sharpness, fine grain and excellent gradation.

-- chris almqvist (chris@propellerheads.org), April 04, 1998.

Rodinol and Agfapan 100 - a match made in heaven

While certainly there is room for dispute, and techniques vary, I've found that Agfapan 100 developed in 1:25 or 1:50 Rodinol is maybe the most beautiful combination tonally that I have come across, especially for pictures of people. It edges the classic Plus-X/D 76 1:1 pairing in my book.

For what it is worth, I've done custom b+w printing for about 20 years and have tried every available medium speed b+w film, though certainly not all the developers. I personally find that visual grain is more the result of a)poor exposure, b)poor quality water in the make-up water for the developer that limits the action of the developer (summertime water here in DC is so acidic that you are basically trying to develop with stop bath), c)over aggressive agitation (the right amount is "just enough" and as smoothly as possible).

My experience is that most visual grain is very different from that which is inherent in the film.

-- William Bell (pixtaker@rocketmail.com), December 23, 1998.


I agree with Chris. I developed a few rolls of Agfa (400 not 100 mind you) with Rodinal, specifically for increased grain and acutance but wound up with ugly prints. Delta 400 was much better. I have also tried Agfa 100 and 400 with D-76 and to tell the truth I just don't like the film...although others love it.

-- Andy Laycock (agl@intergate.bc.ca), April 05, 1998.

Agfa 100 - what film developer

In my reply earlier, I assumed you were using 35 mm film as my experience relates to that size. If you use large format, the situation may be different from 35mm. I know people who find Agfa 100 good for large format.

-- chris almqvist (chris@propellerheads.org), April 05, 1998.


SAME

Thanks for all the replies, I'm using 6X7...not 35mm. Howard

-- Howard Posner (hposner1@swarthmore.edu), April 05, 1998.

I have started using APX100 (120) developed in D23 and really like the results. I also like APX100 in Rodinal 1:50 at about 30% less time than Agfa recommends.

Frank

-- Francis Knapik (FKNAPIK@MAIL.NYSED.GOV), April 06, 1998.


APX 100 developer

Try using tetenal regular Ultrafin (NOT ULTRAFIN +PLUS!!!).

I learnt this on a photgraphic workshop that was hosted by Fay Godwin who used this film/developer combination extensively!! Good enough for her ....goos enough for me.

I develop APX100 in a 1:30 dilution (not shown on Tetenal bottle) for 12 minutes. Presoak the films with water of the correct temp and agitate for 1 to 2 minutes constantly. Then pour pre soak water into a container holding the right amount of Ultrafin. The water will be discolored by the anti halation layer giving it a strange blue/grey tint. When it hits the concentrated ultrafin it will then go pink!! YES PINK!!! Shake briefly and then pour back into the film tank. Agitate for 30 seconds constantly then invert tank twice every 30 seconds from then on until the 12 minutes is done. You will be amazed at the quality and punch of the negatives!! I have used this film dev combination on APX100 in all formats...35mm, 120, and 5x4.

I use a simplified version of the zone system in all my exposures but I still develop my negs in this standard brew and always get very good printable results.

-- Andrew Moxom (andrew_moxom@3com.com), September 13, 1998.


I've done a lot of Minox APX 100 in good old D-76 1:1, 9 minutes at 68 degrees, agitation at 1-minute intervals. It's come out very well, despite this being several minutes less than the Massive Dev Chart suggests. I don't see why this wouldn't be worth trying for larger format negs if it works okay for Minox...

-- Michael Goldfarb (mgoldfar@mobius-inc.com), January 19, 1999.

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