I have heard that it is impossible for a belayer to hold a factor 2 fall from a normal belay device. Is this true?

If it is then I'm assuming the leader should make his first lead clip into the belay anchor before taking off... ?

I've also heard that the above is not a good idea if your belay anchor is not bomber. Because of the pulley force put onto it, a fall could dislodge the anchor and the belayer as well.

By the way, I've always been of the opinion that the placement of the first lead piece is very critical... to the point of almost always making it multi-directional. But it's been my experience to see leaders traverse/climb 5 or 6 feet off the belay before clipping into anything... probably thinking that since they're not far from the belay there's no problem.

-- Robert Hayes (rmch@cadvision.com), May 08, 1998

Answers

Hmm, any belay device, if used properly, should hold a factor 2 fall. Perhaps your first question was for a body belay or figure 8 used in rap mode to belay. Both such belays would probably not be able to hold a factor 2 fall.

Factor 2 falls do put incredible forces on the anchor, so it must be bomber. However most belays are bomber, barring user errors. If placed in good cracks, most pieces of pro are able to withstand a factor 2 fall. So 3 good pieces are what I call a bomber belay, or 2 good 3/8" bolts.

Yes a fall right off the belay can be bad. If the first move right off the belay is hard, one should place pro immediately, a quick draw on the top belay anchor is often a good idea. However many times the first move off the belay is not hard, for one thing the belay tends to be a nice ledge (hopefully). So often there is no problem running it out 20' above the belay, if it is easy.

Another thing is that since belays tend to be on ledges this often makes a factor 2 fall not possible, as you hit the ledge (which can still be serious). In any case, pro early and often is a good idea if there is a chance that you will fall. Judging this chance takes experience.

-George

-- George Bell (bell@advtech.uswest.com), May 11, 1998.

A fall factor = 2 will produce the maximum impact force listed for the rope's specification. Typically, these values can be greater than 1000 lbs. Most belay devices, such as the figure-8 and sticht plate, start to slip around 500-800 lbs. So, it's quite possible for the rope to slip some distance through the belay device during a FF=2 fall. The total amount of slippage will depend on the total length of fall. Obviously a fall of 2 feet on 1 foot of rope will slip much less than a fall of 300 feet on 150 feet of rope! The problem arises if the slippage causes the belayer to let go of the rope, either due to excess heat from friction, or by jamming the hand into the belay plate. For a device like the Grigri, which locks the rope solidy during the fall, slippage isn't a problem. BUt, the peak force can exceed 1000 lbs, so the belay anchor must be bombproof. Hope this helps.

-- Robert Watson (JANE_BOB@WORLDNET.ATT.NET), July 05, 1998.

I didn't really read the previous posts but...factor 2 falls put the most stress on the rope. If it's a short fall thats a factor 2, it won't put any more force on the belay than on a factor 1 fall thats twice the distance. Factor 2 falls kill your ropes, but not always your anchors and belays.

-- Jim Davis (jmdavis384@aol.com), March 20, 2003.

Yes I believe you are on the right track as far as clipping early goes. Ground fall or bouncing off the cliff on the way down notwithstanding, fall factor is far more important than the length of the fall. First of all if you are not leading off of a secure belay, you better get a peice or 2 or 3 in ASAP. Even if the the belay is bomber, and you should make every attempt to ensure that it is, an early peice automatically ensures the elimination of a factor 2. Even if you fall on it and it pulls, it will still have absorbed enough force in most cases to prevent a factor 2 on the belay. As well, a dynamic belay further reduces the chance of a factor 2. Yes a figure 8 in rapell mode will hold a factor 2 off the belay. (extensive personal experience), provided the belayer is focussed and attentive. Further, it is dynamic which reduces the force of the fall as well. The problem is that modern belayers and I suspect some older dead belayers are inattentive. I have heard first hand of a leader falling past his belayer who has both hands in the pack getting a snack. If I was the leader and I survived the fall I would recommend promptly murdering the belayer at the first oportunity, thus preventing further risk and danger to you and other climbers who may be silly enough to climb with such a person. (my tongue is firmly in my cheek about the murder part in other words I'm joking). The advantage of a device like a Gri Gri is that it is itself attentive and can compensate somewhat for a poor belayer. It is an excellent practice in "many" cases to use a shock absorbtion device on the first peice as well.

For a dramatic demonstration of a factor 2 fall, tie or fasten a 2 foot sling to a 200 lb weight. Fasten the sling by carabiner 2 feet below the weight to an anchor of your choice. Allow for a 4 foot free fall with the other end of the sling clipped by carabiner to an anchor of your choice 2 feet below. Push the weight off to allow the weight to free fall 4 feet and the weight to fall directly on to the carabiner and the anchor. I gaurantee that something will give. If the anchor holds, and the rope doesn't break, the carabiner will at the very least be seriously distorted. Exactly this situation occured to me when I was aid climbing. I was 2 feet above the piece below and clipped directly by sling to the peice below. The new piece I was on pulled and I fell directly on to the peice below. Thankfully the piece held but the biner gate had suffered a catastrophic failure. A serious 80 foot lead fall on to a peice up from the belay will not produce the same force. note: destroy and or dispose of any equipment used directly in this test as it is now seriously damaged even if it appears OK.

For detailed explantions of fall factors, check out the UIAA site and various rope and equipment manufacturers sites as well. Understand your rope system and manage the risk, don't roll the dice. Fall "Factor" is extremely important.

-- Bill Betts (bbetts@shaw.ca), February 12, 2004.