After a 20-year hiatus from home developing, I've plunged back into it. In my previous darkroom, I used a ratcheting film reel that sucked the film in. This time, I purchased a two-reel stainless developing tank. I've shredded two rolls of practice film trying to get the procedure down.

I've been starting from the center, attaching the film to the clip, then "pinching" it as I roll outward. The film has a mind of its' own and will not stay on the tracks....AAARRGGGHHHH!!

Any suggestions beyond "Keep practicing"??

-- Steve Streeper (steve@poky.srv.net), May 01, 1999

Answers

Steve: It looks like you bought the 'normal' SS reels. There is hope. Get SS reels made by Hewes from England. Calumet has these in stock all the time, and I suspect that any major outlet will also. If you can't find the Hewes name on the box, look for 'Made in England (or UK, or EC) on the package. Jobo reels are 'Made in England,' but are usually twice the price of the original article. The special quality of Hewes reels is, for 35 mm, the core has a pair of teeth that grip the sprocket holes of the film, making loading extremely fast and easy. For 120-220, the reels have the little clamp turned 180 degrees so that you press the clamp with one hand and slide the film in with the other. I've been using these reels exclusively for the last 9-10 years. They are such a huge improvement for what seems like an obvious design that I can't imagine why the original, with the reversed clamp was every brought to market!

-- Michael D Fraser (mdfraser@earthlink.net), May 02, 1999.

Those steel reels take practice. You should practice in the light with a roll of exposed film until you get the feel of the film going on the reel. I have found that clipping the corners of the end of the film before clipping it onto the reel makes it easier to start spooling. I try to clip the corners (clip only about an eighth of an inch at a 45 degree angle) before I roll the film all the way into the canister after removing the film from the camera. It's hard to cut the corners in the changing bag. Also, don't pinch the film too much when spooling. It should glide on. If you hear the film crimp when spooling, back up and start again. You can feel the spooled film with your finger to tell if it has gotten off track. Good luck.

-- Greg (wca@idt.net), May 02, 1999.

T-MAX definitely has a mind of its own on steel reels. Anything else works better for me.

-- John O'Connell (oconnell@siam.org), May 03, 1999.

- Practice in the light; then you'll be able to visualize what's happening in the dark much better. - Don't pinch too hard. I hold the sides of the reel with the thumb and fingers of my "pinching" (right) hand, rotate the reel with my left hand, and the film passes through my fingers (right hand), from right to left, above/at the second knuckle---almost touching my palm. Sqeeze just enough to cup the film slightly, but not enough to cause the edges of the film to come off the track (so to speak).

Once you get the hang, you'll never go b

-- Benjamin Ogdon (bjammin@cts.com), May 07, 1999.

That last line was: "Once you get the hang, you'll never go back". Don't know what happened to the "ack" in my last post.

The reply before mine, about beveling the corners of the film before clipping it in---that's something I do too.

-- Benjamin Ogdon (bjammin@cts.com), May 07, 1999.

Buy plastic!

-- Trib (linhof6@hotmail.com), May 07, 1999.

I have never been able to load steel reals. I have tried and tried. Gave up and went plastic when I bought my own gear. I did see at a swap meet an attachment piece for steel reals that aided in guiding the film in. I don't know what they were called. Maybe someone else can help?

-- David (dprimm@isunet.net), May 11, 1999.

Try this: hold the reel in the left hand, your thumb in position to depress the spring clip attaches the film, gently squeeze the film strip as your position it at the spring clip, relax your grip, letting the film expand to the edges of the reel. This automaticly centers the film. Depress the clip, push the film end into place and secure it. Rotate the reel while gently squeezing the film strip. The problems usually occur during the first few turns of the reel. Chek for proper loading by gently pushing the film toward and away from the reel. If properly loaded, you can feel it move withing the spirals. If it won't move, unwid a little, and try again. Practice first in the light. Good Luck.

-- Bill Moore (wmoore@provide.net), May 11, 1999.

I know this sounds stupid but one of the main problems i have noticed from my students is that they have the reel backwards and they try to roll against the outward spiral. If you hold the reel with your left hand to start it; make sure the spiral starting from the center is going clockwise and ends pointing to your right. Hope that helps

-- Marvin Waters (photojoe1@aol.com), June 13, 1999.

Plastic reels and a small handdryer to dry them before loading and all your misery will be over.

-- Mani Sitaraman (bindumani@pacific.net.sg), June 15, 1999.

Here is a technique that solved a lot of problems loading SS 35mm reels for me. First, when rewinding the film, leave the leader out of the cartridge. If the leader is already in, try to retrive it.(If you use reloadable cartridges, you can open them, retrive the leader, and then close it back up). Be sure to crip the leader so you know it is exposed!

In room light, cut the tongue of the film off and then cut about a 1/4" off each corner of the film at a 45 degree angle. Now place the cut end into the spring catch and start the film on the reel. Since you are working in the light, it is easy to get the film started correctly. Once you have the film started, turn off the lights and proceed to load the rest of the reel. Cut the film at the end and place it in the tank. Turn on the lights and repeat for as many reels as you want.

Getting the flim started right is the answer to 95%+ of loading problems. Sorry, It won't work for 120!

-- Gene Crumpler (nikonguy@worldnet.att.net), June 16, 1999.

There are reel loaders that automate the process. You can find them for sale on eBay, or Calumet has them in their catalog.

They squeeze the film the right amount and guide it into place. I picked one up from eBay, but haven't tried it yet.

BTW I don't have trouble with the inner part of the reel, but do have trouble when loading the past few turns.

-- Terry Carraway (TCarraway@compuserve.com), June 17, 1999.

I find that the Nikkor steel reels in 35mm are very easy to use. The cheaper brands, made from finer-gauge wire, are more difficult.

-- Greg Fight (fight@gate.net), July 10, 1999.

Go with Michael Fraser's approach. Pitch the reels you have now and spend the extra bucks for the Hewes reels. They are expensive, but loadiing them is pretty much fool proof. I have never damaged a single frame using these reels.

-- Richard Evans (evans@dbtech.net), August 01, 1999.