my son, a typical impatient seventeen year old, had a roll of Kodak TMax 400 and a roll of Tri-X. I suggested separate developments, but he was in a hurry and loaded both into a dual Patterson tank. Xtol developer for six minutes, water bath, fix for five minutes, hypo-clear for three minutes, and a fifteen minute wash. Photo-flo, and hung to dry. as the negs were drying he noticed a film on the Tri-X only. I suggested re-fixing, and the film was a soapy (basic) film. as we washed the films, it was obvious the emulsion was peeling away from the base. I thought I had read in the archives of someone else having difficulties after mixing the two types of films. could someone explain to us what might have gone wrong? after fixing and washing, it seems the slimey film is reduced but still there and the the emulusion peeled away in spots.

thank you.

-- Daniel Taylor (aviator@vernonia.com), July 05, 1999

Answers

a follow up to my posted question. on investigation, I found that my son had used my stock solution of hypo-clear, which I would normally mix 1:4. the Tri-X took on a mottling, looking like small worms, etched in the emulsion. the TMax-400 was not effected in this manner, and seemed to process normally. I don't know if this was the culprit, but it seems like something as strong as this solution is, added right after a three minute fix, might cause some strange chemistry. luckily, as he was about to throw the negatives away (with tears in his eyes) I suggested he leave them alone. within the hour, they dried, mottled, but with an interesting look to them. he seems okay with it, likes the odd effect, and we both learned something.

-- Daniel Taylor (aviator@vernonia.com), July 05, 1999.

I really doubt the problem was the HCA; that's a solution of sodium sulfite and sodium bisulfite, and strength doesn't really matter. I'd suspect too-hot process or wash temperatures, especially since you don't have a problem with the prehardened T-Max.

-- John Hicks / John's Camera Shop (jbh@magicnet.net), July 06, 1999.

Daniel,

I had the same problem with Tri-x. Though I didn't process Tmax and Tri-x in the same tank, I have developed both films in the same session, using the same developer(both Tmax and Xtol)and fix, at the same temperature, in the exact same patterson model 2 reel tank. No problems whatsoever with the Tmax, the Tri-x was less forgiving. In addition to slimy emulsion, I also experienced spotting and grain reticulation. Tempering my water, and putting a sign on the toilet that says, "do not flush- washing film" went a long way. Check your processing temperatures, and if you live in an apartment with antiquated plumbing like I do, double filter your water and make sure no one flushes or showers during your rinse. In a controlled environment, you will love Tri-x and XTol. I use this combonation 90 percent of the time, and couldn't be happier with the results.

-- Paul Klingaman (Paul.Klingaman@Veritas.com), July 06, 1999.

I've done TMY and Tri-X in the same tank without any problems. I forget if I used D-76 or T-Max developer, but I doubt the developer would have made much of a difference.

-- John O'Connell (oconnell@siam.org), July 07, 1999.

Don't rinse your film in water directly from the faucet. Mix hot/cold-water/ice in a large vessel to adjust the temp. then dip it out.

-- Tim Brown (brownt@ase.com), July 08, 1999.