Moslty Ilford Delta 100 but two roll so fT-Max 100. All 120. I used an old Rolleiflex. The chromes came out 1/2 stop too dark so I guess the 40 year old built in meter is off by about that much. I have yet to process the b&w - since it was taken in same camera I expect it is about 1/2 stop underexposed. However, I used the b&w on overcast days and the chromes on bright days so it may be fine. Should I extend the development time (and by how much) to compensate or is the latitude range of this film broad enough that I shouldn't worry about it ?

please also copy reply to my email address.

Thanks, GI

-- Gareth Ingram (sgingram@venus.uwaterloo.ca), July 19, 1999

Answers

Depends, I would give the following recommendation:

If the contrast of the subject(s) was low: increase dev. time about 10 to 20 %

High contrast: try Emofin developer.

-- Thies Meincke (meincke@uni-hamburg.de), July 20, 1999.

If in a high-contrast situation, develop normally. For low or medium crast, increase development about 20%. If in doubt or you have both kinds of scenes on the same roll, add 10%. This should get you good, printable negs, even if not perfect ones.

-- Dave Jenkins (djphoto@vol.com), July 20, 1999.

Gareth, if you shot the same subjects on the balck and white as the chromes, i would extend the processing time. However, if you have not used the lab before, or processed your own chromes in the chemistry you are using(or not used your chemistry in a while) the problem could be there too..either way i would prefer to have a neg that is a little dense before i would a thin one. the delta tends to push nicely, so if you use ID-11 ( Ilfords D-76 ) @ 1:1 and increase you normal processing time by 20% this should help your negs. My normal time for Delta 100 in ID-11 1:1 @ 68f is 11 1/2 min. T-max 100 ( in my opinion ) pushes really crappy. i would use nothing less than a semi compensating developer. I am still hooked on HC-110. it is very stable, versatile, and yields nice results. I hardly ever use the recommended ASA ( which i am assuming is what you shot the film at ) I find the shadow detail is lacking at these ratings. if that is the case, the HC-110 will yield a little more contrast in the shadows. Also, the meter in the camera averages everything to 18% gray. if you were shooting something white, it will have underexposed the film (telling the film to make the metered white area gray). Good Luck, Sean

-- Sean (ZBeeblebrox42@yahoo.com), July 20, 1999.