Good Morning, folks.

I'm at the stage of ordering chickens (I've got the goats, pigs and rabbits). The following company came to my attention as one that is reliable and has a good reputation.

http://www.mcmurrayhatchery.com

Now, my question is, should we, this late in the year (I live in Southern Michigan), should I get chicks, which gives me more birds, or look for local birds for sale, which runs me the chance of getting someone else's rejects?

Also, if I go with chicks, what shelter will they need? Our nights are currently at 65 to 70 degrees, but can easily go to 50 or 55 on no notice.

Can they start free running immediately??

Any and all advice will be appreciated.

Jon

-- Jon Williamson (jwilliamson003@sprintmail.com), August 18, 1999

Answers

Jon,

I have ordered from McMurray multiple times as well as several other hatcheries. They are usually a bit more expensive but I must admit their birds seem to be outstanding! I started with chicks because I didn't want to bring home problems like lice, disease, etc. For baby chicks you should plan on starting them in a big cardboard box with newspaper on the bottom for the first day or so (because they will eat pine shavings if given before they learn what to eat) followed by pine shavings in a thin layer. You need a source of heat as they need to have a spot in the box where they can gather that stays between 95 and 100 degrees, but that they can also get away from if too hot. Plan on sprinkling chick starter on the paper or in a shallow lid of some kind and get a chick waterer for a couple bucks at the feed store (they easily drown in a bowl). Plan on keeping them inside for a few weeks unless you have a secure location outside that can match these conditions. McMurray's catalog has good instructions in it.

I would highly recommend the "Poultry Information Exchange" or "Feathersite" web sites but I have changed computers and don't have the URL's handy - do a search.

Chicks will need about 20-24 weeks to mature enough to produce eggs so you are going to have eggs by early spring. Short daylength of winter days would seriously slow down mature layers anyway. IMHO you should go with the chicks.

I enjoy having an assortment of breeds. There have been references to mixed breeds being inferior but I simply have not found that to be true. Certainly if you have a rooster of a bantam breed mating to a big Brahma the offspring are likely to be smaller.

For meat only the "meat birds" are incredibly fast growers but totally unable to fend for themselves - genetically dumbed down and handicapped by their "commercial" properties. My favorite dual purpose are Dorkings and Orpingtons - just personal favorites, both excellent layers and also heavy enough for meat purposes.

Good luck with your chickens!

-- Kristi (securxsys@cs.com), August 18, 1999.

Jon,

You will need to keep them in an area with no corners and no drafts and a heat lamp for several weeks. We used a metal sheep water tank the last time (since we had a spare at the time), but have used the big boxes toilet paper come in at the grocery store in the past. They have to be protected from predators (including any cats you have) so the building must be secure or put a screen over the top of the box (we use an old screen door) with bricks on it. We keep ours in the house for the few weeks and move them to a building we have that is fairly secure when they are bigger and need more space.

There are several good books or old articles in Mother Earth News on raising chicks. McMurray Hatchery is a good one and easy to work with and will answer a ton of questions. They recommend getting a vaccination for Marek's disease for the chicks (which I have no idea what it is), but I don't. I tried it once and lost quite a few chicks - I can't say that it was the vaccination, but I haven't had any problems the last couple of times since I quit getting the shots.

The chickens shouldn't run free until they are almost grown and even then you may lose a few because of predators or they just get lost.

It is not too late in the year to order though because I have done it here in Iowa later than this - the chickens just won't lay eggs until a little later than normal, but I have found them to be just as hardy.

-- Beckie (sunshine_horses@yahoo.com), August 18, 1999.

Hey Jon,

I cast a vote for starting with baby chicks. A good agrument can be raised for starting with older birds, or half grown birds, but you have this time now to practice and learn the skills necessary for raising your own chicks, which may come in handy next year. However, time and care are intense the first week, and a close eye necessary for a few weeks more, i.e. temperature, preditors and illness, (or maybe I just worry to much).

I have their area all set up in an out building, but somehow I suspect they will end up in the living room. :-)

My Murry McMurry chicks will arrive in the mail tomarrow or Friday. Very good folks to deal with. Anyone else interested, the catalog from Murry McMurry can be ordered from their web site, and in ones' hands within a week, or at least mine was. All basic information for raising chicks and keeping chickens in general is within those pages. They offer supplies, medications and books as well.

Murry McMurry

-- Lilly (homesteader145@yahoo.com), August 18, 1999.

I have gotten chicks from Murray McMurray for years and they really are superior chickens in all ways. But you must buy a minimum of 25 to have them mailed to you. I would recommend that you order 23 pullet chicks and two rooster chicks. I also recommend that you stick with one breed. I do not advocate hybrid vigor when it comes to egg production. And as non producers cost just as much to feed, feed good ones. I would also recommend that you ask that they NOT include their bonus chick which is usually some kind of banty rooster or wierd breed. I have had New Hamshires, Rhode Island Reds and Barred Rocks from this hatchery. All were good layers but as I was living up north then, winter was a real consideration. I found that the barred rock's winter egg production was far greater than the other breeds. Right now I have prize winning sex link hens that I bought at the fair. They do not hold a candle to MCMurrays chickens for eggs or meat. Go with the best while you have the opportunity. Stick with a particular egg/meat breed and your flock can go forever.

Taz...who can hardly gag down a store bought egg!

-- Taz (Tassie@aol.com), August 18, 1999.

Jon,

I say to do both.

What's that old saying...."Don't put all your eggs in one basket" I think that would apply here. Get maybe 6-7 young hens (you dont need a rooster to get eggs) Plan on loosing a few at first, unless you are extra lucky. I would also get 25-50 row run chicks, you will get your rooster in that group (with a few friers) and plenty of new hens for spring.

That's just my two cents worth, and probably not worth that.

-- bulldog (sniffin@around.com), August 18, 1999.

Murray McMurray is a good hatchery IMHO- I get the brown egg layer "special"- pullets only deal. Everything under the sun and terrific birds. our favorite is the "exotic" chick from one batch though- a beautiful Buff Brahma-she's everybodies favorite- a glamourpuss!!

We also have quite a few birds obtained locally from others- both have worked out well. If you get adult birds- stick to a year old or so- not much older. The going rate around here for those is between $1.50(low) to $3.50 or so apiece. Be sure theyb look healthy, have bright red combs- not dull at this time of year. they should weigh a reasonable amount for their size- not too thin. Feathers should be shiny too.

Go both ways- get some adult layers now to get going with and raise the chicks. BTW- the easiest way to raise chicks is with a broody banty- get a couple of banty hens in with your order too. I wouldn't worry about ordering any rooster chicks- every pullet only order I've gotten has had at least 1 rooster- and they are easy to come by locally.

-- farmer (hillsidefarm@drbs.com), August 18, 1999.

Chicks were our choice. We obtained a few locally (at $2.50-3.00 each) and will get more either locally or from MurrayMcMurray. If 25 are too many, consider splitting an order with some GI friends. Brooder (for heat) of some sort is definitely required, even here in Hawaii. We're using a large cardboard box with newspaper on the bottom, and some chicken wire on the top to keep the cat out.

As an aside, my wife wasn't too keen on the idea (never raised any), until the chicks arrived...now she's spoiling them!

-- Mad Monk (madmonk@hawaiian.net), August 19, 1999.

I have always ordered my chicks from a place in Lebanon, Mo, but I may try McMurray next year(If they are able to ship). I did get their catalogue and ordered the propane brooder. Our back up electric system is not designed to handle things that pull lots of watts, like the iron,oven,elec brooder. Anyway, it was apparent that the folks at McMurray were taking y2k into consideration when I talked to them on the phone. They are hoping there's no problems with their incubators(AND the post office) next spring. I have always ordered the cornish rock cross for meat chickens. They DO finish out quickly(8-9 weeks) - but they are SO inactive and can be prone to leg problems, and heart attacks. Next time, I'm going to try the "Cornish Roaster" listed on page 21 of their catelogue. It says they are more active and take about 2 more weeks to finish out. I canned 85 quarts of chicken this year; plus about 15 for the freezer.

-- jeanne (jeanne@hurry.now), August 19, 1999.

Hawks have made a big come back in the past few years. I can't let my chickens out anymore. You would need a wired in area to run in. Also dogs love chicken.

-- rambo (rambo@thewoods.com), August 20, 1999.