I've been trying to ferrotype Azo without success. I've had trouble with micro-fine bubbles, sticking to glass, concentric rings from print drying from outside to center, and you name it. Rust from stainless surface. Is there someone who can explain a method of successful ferrotyping to me. Thank you, David

-- david clark (doc@ellensburg.com), October 04, 1999

Answers

I used to do this many years ago. I used a ferrotyping plate (chrome plated steel, I believe). I remember using ferrotype polish to prepare the plate and recall my results were somewhat less than 100% perfect. I also recall using photoflo as a wetting agent to minimize bubbles and imperfections. That seemed to help. I've never had any success using a drum type dryer. I'm as curious now as you to hear what others have come up with.

-- Robert A. Zeichner (razeichner@ameritech.net), October 04, 1999.

Use chromed metal tins. Polish them with Bon Ami cleanser. Treat the prints in Pakosol or make your own from photo-flo and glycerin. Lay them on the tin rather wet and roll or squeegee into good contact. I use a Premier heated dryer with good results.

-- Tony Brent (ajbrent@mich.com), October 06, 1999.