Would some kind soul please give easy instructions for this lady on how to shut off the water to my house. I have well water, and the shutoff pipe is in the basement.

This is something I wish I didn't have to think about, but worse case scenario, it will need to be done. I remember something about opening the highest faucet in the house; then, it seems like I also have to open one of the baement faucets? Also, something about using antifreeze.......but will that be harmful, later, when I use the water, again? (I have a printer, now, so don't have to rely on my memory.)

Also, does the hot water heater have to be drained at this time? I've never done anything like this, before- dread it with a passion! But can't afford to let my nice plaster walls melt down, if the pipes freeze.

Also, could any knowledgeable person tell how long you can go before doing all this......it would be a shame to go to all this trouble, if the power (which powers my water supply) would be off just a couple of days. Any help from knowledgeable sources would be deeply appreciated.

-- Jo Ann (MaJo@Michiana.com), October 30, 1999

Answers

Jo Ann ; Some info you forgot to give out, are you still going to live there? why are you turning off the water supply? if you do don't forget to turn off the circuit breaker for the pump. To drain the whole house, yes do open the highest faucet to allow the water to drainout. The lowest point would be the drain on the water heater, becarefull because that water will be hot coming out. Attach a garden hose to drain that water into ther floor drain ,then open that drain at the bottom. You probably won't need the RV antifreeze type stuff if you drain the house. Open pipes can't freeze. But if you live in the house you will not need to drain the system,or if you leave the house keep the house at least 55 degrees,the pipes should not freeze. sure hope this helps some, possibly others will asnwer your question.

Furie...

-- Furie (furieart@dent.net), October 31, 1999.

Hey Jo Ann

Since you have a basement, you need to make plans to drain the water into a storage barrel, or plastic jugs, or wash basins or washing machine (if in the basement). Good idea not to waste water anyway, huh?

Look at the pipes from the basement wall leading to the upstairs floor, or in to the hot water heater. Ususally the cold water supply will first go to the water heater. There should/may be a low point drain before the water heater. In this case you will drain the system from here. As you stated, open the faucet the farthest from the low point, this will assure vacuum does not trap water in the system. Probably won't happen..but.

Next, I would recommend you cover your water heater with an extra blanket if you feel it is needed, to keep it from freezing, but I would keep the reservoir full as long as you can. If it is so cold indoors that extended exposure to temps cold enough to freeze the water in your water heater are present, it may be an unhealthy environment for you folks anyway. Your call, though.

Remember, a half full pipe will not burst from the expansion of water turning into ice. It bursts when there is no more room within the pipe for expansion. Removing 100% of the water from your lines is a psychological fix, rather than a mechanical one. Generally the points a geatest risk are the places where water gets trapped, like valves, low points, and sometimes the wet vent line that keeps your basement floor drain from smelling, because it has lost the p-trap water to dehydration,(from lack of use). This will be a small copper line running from the cold water supply line, ususally right after the main shut off valve, and before the first fixture (sink, spigot,wash tray, etc.) The line will most likely be flexible copper less than 1/2" dia. If possible, look into the floor drain and see if you can detect water. Maybe even slip a piece of long thin stiff paper into it and see if it gets wet. If the drain is *never* draining spills in the basement, but the test is positive, there is a good chance you may have a wet vent line attached. The only way I know of to purge the line without a plumbers help, is to force air through the system after the main supply is shut off tightly. You can blow forcefully enough to purge the system if all the faucets, and spigots are shut tightly, except the one you are going to force air through.

Never add glycol based antifreeze to you domestic water system. It can kill. You can protect you sinks, toilets, traps, etc, with saline solution (salt water) since it will not freeze before it is time for you to evacuate anyway. At which time you can just make the salt solution strong enough to resist even the worst conditions. Again, a half full line will not burst, neither will a , tank, or container with room enough for the ice to expand.

Jo Ann, I have become sure enough of the future failures due to Y2K to develop extreme hardship measures. One of these is a manual water drawing scheme, that involves fishing line, plastic or rubber balls, some inexpensive pvc tubing, and a collection barrel/pail. It requires no electricity, no mechanical parts, can be easily adapted to fit nearly any well, and can be built/fixed by almost anyone. I am not selling anything, just trying to help. If you would like further information, contact me, the Addy is real.

Hey Furie, good to have you back my friend.

-- Michael (mikeymac@uswest.net), October 31, 1999.

Jo Ann,

Just a couple of additional points...

If you are draining the water heater, don't forget to turn off the electrical breakers to it, as the heater elements are meant to operate only when immersed in water. Also, you may need to worry about other water containers in the house, such as aquariums, waterbeds, etc.

A well insulated house will eventually drop in temperature to a point somewhat higher than the average of the day and night outside temperatures. The reason it is somewhat higher is that there is a net heat gain from any south facing windows, especially double glazed ones. Not sure where you are located, but it may stay above freezing, even if it is too cold to live in.

If you are adding antifreeze to the drains, you have to buy the type that is used in swimming pools and recreational vehicles. As mentioned above, do NOT use automotive antifreeze.

-- John (jh@NotReal.ca), October 31, 1999.

To all who have responded, thank you ever so much! To answer the question whether I intend to live in the house, yes! I also plan on using a 23,000 BTU kerosene heater, which makes me wonder if it is going to be necessary to go to the trouble of draining the pipes. So much to worry about, for a lady who knows nothing about these things! Not sure if I'd be holing up in the basement (less windows) or the upstairs, where I can see outside, and what's going on!

If, by using the kerosene heater, and I don't have to drain pipes, maybe some kind soul could give me advice on that.

-- Jo Ann (MaJo@Michiana.com), October 31, 1999.

Jo Ann, You might want to read the part of my earlier thread about using plastic storm window kits, dropsheets and/or insulation to keep the heat where you need it.

Y2K Lessons From The Trenches

If you close off or restrict heat movement to any unused areas that do not have water pipes in them such as spare bedrooms, add some insulation to the windows of the rooms that you are heating, maximize the entry of sunlight during the day and use your heater, you probably can cope OK and will not have to drain anything.

Don't forget to get a battery operated carbon monoxide detector and open a window a little near the kerosene heater when you are using it.

Good Luck

-- John (jh@NotReal.ca), October 31, 1999.

Joann-I read all the other posts and will add my 2 cents. I live in the upstate region of NY state. We have a 160year old farmhouse with a fieldstone foundation that is laid up dry (no mortar). Winter temps are well below freezing a good portion of the time, especially at night. The cellar (no pretense at being a "basement") is approximately 7ft below grade and all the water pipes of various generations are exposed. I have made sure that the all potential drafts, and I do mean all, are taken care of with fiberglass insulation. I cover the single pane windows with batting (take it down in the spring for ventilation), insulate the sill plate (thats the main beam that sits on top of the foundation), caulk any spot you can feel cool air coming in. With this forethought, even if the upstairs is freezing, the basement should stay a nice comfy 40- 45degrees. Too cool to sit around in, but enough to keep from freezing. In order to preserve the hot water tank as an emergency supply, I would look for a drain valve somewhere in the basement that is below the upstairs, but above the hot water tank and drain from that point. Good luck Bill

-- Bill (Bill@SHF.com), October 31, 1999.