How to rebuild hydraulic cylinders on Case tractorgreenspun.com : LUSENET : Countryside : One Thread
The seals in the hydraulic steering cylinders of my Case 430 tractor have started leaking so badly that they can no longer be ignored. I have tried to disassemble them as per the factory manual but the piston doesn't just slid out of the cylinder they way they describe. There appears to be an internal metal-to-metal stop or detent. It may be the piston running up against the back of the cylinder seal but I am reluctant to apply much force to the situation as it at least works the way it is now and may not work if I break or bend something. The dealer and his mechanic are no help. I don't think that either one of them was alive when this tractor was built. Thanks for the attention, John and Pat.
-- john and pat james (firstname.lastname@example.org), January 09, 2000
If you could supply some more information and let us know what part of the country you live in we may be able to help. We farm with all 1950's era Case equipment and do all our own repair and maintenance work. Your tractor should have been made from 1959-1963. If we cannot help you directly, we have a number of friends countrywide that are Case enthusiasts and we're sure we can hook you up with someone that would be of assistance.
-- Gary & Polly Sergel (email@example.com), January 09, 2000.
You could also try posting your question at the Case Tractor Discussion Forum. They focus on the older models. I'll try to put the web address here:
(that is a number 1 after wwwboard)
-- Kim (firstname.lastname@example.org), January 10, 2000.
There could be several reasons for your probelm, with more info I could better advise you. Common probelms include bent rods, the inside of the barrel being "burred up" towards the end, especially if any kind of snap ring is used, or even that the barrel was crushed inwards(a few thousands is all it takes). I work primarily on Ford and Deere tractors, so I'm not sure on the exact construction of that cylinder. In the past I've had to beat out the rod with a bar and sledge hammer, I've heated barrels to get them to expand, and to remove internal burring a dremel tool or pneumatic die-grinder. I'd bet that all the parts may well still be available, especially the packings, which must be installed with care(and vasoline). Heatings up the packings(not the o-rings, if used) in vegatable oil helps to install them.One other thing, on backhoe cylinders, I've even had to chain the rod to one tractor, the barrel to another, and have a tug-of-war. Since I do have my own business, and this is such a sue-happy society we live in, remember, I'm not recoomending anything here, just what I've had to do in the past. Good luck, and feel free to contact me for more "info".
-- Paul White (email@example.com), February 02, 2000.