what's my next step (breaking a colt)

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Hi

I just bought a 3 month old colt and he just got at my house today what I want to know is what's my next step I want to brake him my self and I have never done it I want to get him used to guns,traffic,ropes around his head,and anything else you can think of.

he is my first colt but I have one 7 year old gelding he is the horse I learned to ride on ( we just got him 3 months ago ) so if that doesn't show you how much I know about horses I don't know what will.

yes I do know that you don't start braking horses untill he's 2 but I want to make it as easy as possible so I want him to smell everything and see everything

and I mite show him ( he's a grade so I don't know if I can ) thanks Pat's daughter Juli

-- Juli Mikul (pmikul@pcpros.net), July 03, 2000

Answers

Response to what's my next step

Hi Juli,

Lots of luck with your little guy. I trained my first horse many many eons ago when I was a kid. I also worked on training myself an Arabian colt I had about 9 yrs ago. I sold him as we had to move, he is now fully trained and doing well. I started out by halter training as Arabs should not be ridden til they are 3 yrs old due to their backs. I walked him every day up and down the road to get him used to traffic. I also worked with him on command training which he did well with too. I also lunged him as well. My husband and sons used to practice target shooting (away from the farm though) so he was used to the sound of a gun. I also tried using a bareback saddel on him when he was a yr old so he got used to something on his back. Oh... and i forgot, as soon as possible, I started him with a bridel and bit in his mouth too. Hope this helps. Good Luck!

-- Bernice (geminigoats@yahoo.com), July 03, 2000.


Response to what's my next step

First: Go buy a good, sturdy halter that lives about once inch of extra space over his nose, but does NOT slip off. Then start teaching him to walk beside you, while you walk around. Try to keep him on your right, as you'll probobly mount from his left side later. After he is calm (about a month, maybe longer) start walking him in increasing lounder places as he gets comfortable with the last one. Also, keep adjusting the halter, or buy a newone as needed. Don't let it get so tight that it rubs off his nose hair and leaves angry sores underneath. You should always be able to get two fingers under his halter over his nose, and one behind his ears.

Next: If you'll want to break him to harness as well, get a bridle on him at about 6 mo. Some start sooner, but I feel it is too early, and you may make his mouth tough. You might consider a hackmore (bitless) bridle until he is over a year. Don't walk him around by the bridle yet, continue using the halter under the bridle, and simple hang the reins (UNTIED!!!!) over his neck, so that he won't associate it with bad things. Just walk him around like before. DON'T LET HIM EAT WITH A BIT IN HIS MOUTH! If you do, you'll fight that forever. He'll always want to stop and eat.

At a year go to a broken bit (it's very gentle) and begin to neckrein him from the back. (Check out a book on breaking and training western horses if you want to ride western, or drive him, it'll usually explain how to do this with pictures) Also, if he's to be a pleasure mount, start tossing a blanket over his back for your daily walk. It'll slowly get him used to stuff on his back. If you just jump on one day, he'll soon assosiate the bridle and weight with work, hence no fun.

If your horse is arabian (full) you'll want to wait to ride until he is three. This should get your started on the right path. Remember, you've got to spend TIME with the horse to make him your partner. You can't just walk up to him once and week or month ane expect him to recall the last training session. Also, remember when your riding, to take your horses out from time to time, slip off the bridle (after putting on the halter), and let 'em eat for awhile. Then bridle 'em up and ride back. That'll help keep them from getting barn shy. (wanting to spring back to the barn/pasture at breakneck speeds with disregard to rider and bridle alike!) Above all else, enjoy him.

-- marty P. (Mrs.Puck@excite.com), July 03, 2000.


Response to what's my next step

Spend as much time with your colt as you can--& talk to him all the time--you will find he respondes to you voice & when he is a little oldier will respond to veberal commands---read everything you can on training hores & colts!!!!!! Talk to other horse owners! Learn from their experience! Today start with the verbal commands you will always use---like whoa--walk--easy--that's a boy--always talk to that colt when ever you are around it! Let it know today you will follow through with what ever command you give it!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Then Do! Don't ever tell it something & then not follow through with the command! I can not stress that enough! Let it know it can trust you! If you give a command & don't follow through that colt will know it can't trust you! It will know you don't have what it takes & it will soon learn it can do anything it wants to do--let alone you will not follow through. Watch out for that colt --be smart with your teaching- -one day it will become your best friend & know you are a person of your word & you will find when it is grown it will look out for you! You will think alike--work together & be a team --but that takes work EVERDAY!!!!!

-- Sonda (sgbruce@birch.net), July 03, 2000.

Response to what's my next step

You might like to check out the methods used by Pat Parelli. His seminars are quite pricey, but I have seen his videos, which actually show you what he does, and they should be cheaper than the seminars! The web address is:

http://www.parelli.com/welcome.htm

Below is a snippet from the page:

"By studying how horses communicate in their natural herd environment, Pat identified seven games which horses use to establish friendship and dominance. When a human learns this language with horses, the changes are phenomenal.

Imagine what it must be like for the horse. He understands others in his herd, but cant for the life of him understand what the human is trying to communicate. Its like living in a foreign country for years, struggling to understand others, then overhearing someone speaking your native language - youre instinctively drawn to them because it means instant communication and understanding.

This is why people find their horses respond to this method of communication very quickly, reporting dramatic, lasting changes even within the first hour of applying these principles."

You might decide it isn't for you, but it's free to look at the web pages! You might do a search on "Pat Parelli". John Lyons is another that reportedly uses similar methods.

-- J. E. Froelich (dragnfly@chorus.net), July 04, 2000.


Response to what's my next step

For an occasional break in the routine, consider teaching both of your horses medical/vet behaviors. I used to be involved in large animal training (dolphins and manatees), and it was important to try to teach them ways to cooperate should they need medical attention. Some of the things that were taught were: basic overall exam of body parts, mouth opening, stationing and presenting a specific part for handling. Don't forget to occasionally have someone that your horses don't know play the part of the vet, so that they will tolerate someone other than you doing the handling.

Granted, when in pain and confused, there is no guarantee that the animal will properly respond, but there is a much greater chance that routine exams can be done more safely and thoroughly, and that in a crisis the animal will fall back on training that brought rewards (both kindness and treats!)in the past. Besides, your vet will absolutely love you for your effort.

-- Lori Price (klnprice@yahoo.com), July 06, 2000.



Response to what's my next step

John Lyons had a series in Horse & Rider magazine about training for the foals and weanlings this past year. See if you can get ahold of that series of articles and you will be off to a good start. He is now running a series on the yearling year if you want to get it as well. You might want to have the vet check this baby over. Most weanling are at least 4 mos old and we don't wean until 5 mos.

-- beckie (sunshine_horses@yahoo.com), July 06, 2000.

Response to what's my next step

Juli,

Congratulations!

I recommend a book called "There Are No Problem Horses,only problem riders" by Mary Twelveponies. It is published by the Houghton Mifflin company. Lots of good stuff there.

If you want this colt to be a gentle horse, able to handle anything, you must spend MUCH time with him. Touch him as much as possible.

Example: I have a two year old heifer that I acquired when she was 4 months old. I kept her in the back yard. She was a part of everything. After a little while, nothing bothered her. Kids running and screaming, dressing her up in hats and bells, it was all just a normal part of life for her. At this point, I could dress her in a tutu and walk her down main street.

What you put into this horse is what you will get out of it. Read as much as you can and listen to all the advice you can get,but....

REMEMBER...........even advice from "experts" is only their opinion. You must take it all in and find your own way for you and your horse. There are rules of safety that are pretty much the same for every horse, but after that, you have to find out what works for you and your horse.

Good luck.

-- Mona (jascamp@ipa.net), July 07, 2000.


Response to what's my next step

Best of luck with your new colt. If you really want to train him yourself, the best advice I can suggest is that you at least find a good, gentle trainer to assist and guide you while you do the actual training. Perhaps a local 4-H leader or a trainer who needs a helper if money is tight. If you have only been riding 3 months you may need some lessons to help you acquire a proper seat, legs, hands, etc, before you take on such a project. On the good side, the colt is young and you have plenty of time to improve your riding skills since IMO no horse should really be ridden or worked hard until age 3. Yes, many people consider 2 as the standard age, but many horses started this early end up breaking down earlier too. In the mean time I would halter break the colt and introduce him to as many new experiences as possible. Trailering, ponying, clippers, baths, walking through water, noises, farrier, vets, etc. If done correctly at a young age you will never have problems with these things. I would start very light lounging lessons at 1 to 2 years depending on his maturity. He can also get used to wearing a snaffle or bosal and a light, well fitting saddle during this time. I also agree that 3 months is a tad young for weaning. I wean mine at 4-6 depending on their condition & that of their dam. Make sure he gets proper nutrition and that he isn't competing for food.

-- Elle (hotging@aol.com), July 07, 2000.

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