What trees to plant?greenspun.com : LUSENET : Countryside : One Thread
I'm in central Montana and need to get some trees planted. I would like something for a wind break and eventually shade. Travelling around I like those really tall trees they use to border orchards in central Washington. I don't know what they are or if they will grow here. Some help, PLEASE!
-- Andrew Carlsson (firstname.lastname@example.org), July 10, 2000
A lot of the tall trees for wind breaks are Lombardy Poplar.. Some of the new hybred poplars and willows grow really fast but they must be watered.. We have a hybred willow that is 2 years old and about 12 ft. high.. Ask the extention agent for your county... Doris in Idaho
-- Doris Richards (email@example.com), July 10, 2000.
Windbreaks are normally several rows of different height trees. Tallest in the back, to shortest, such as firs, in front. Also normally in two lines towards the prevailing wind.
Windbreaks can be expensive if you have to go to a nursery and buy started trees. Locally, once a year, the Forestry Dept. gives away seedlings.
-- Ken Scharabok (firstname.lastname@example.org), July 10, 2000.
Hey! Central Montana. Are you familiar with the OW Ranch down by Decker, Montana, on the Wyoming border? Inlaw's family owned it until a few years ago. Over 380,000 acres plus a lot of leased land. I used to go up there hunting when I was a kid. Sure gets cold up there. I'm in Texas...
-- Joe Cole (email@example.com), July 10, 2000.
Living in Montana, any trees with leaves will lose them in the fall, so they won't be much of a wind break in the winter. We have Norway Pines (red pines) and they grow really fast! Just make sure you plant them far enough apart. We live in Wisconsin and know what a strong north wind can do. We also have white pines but they got some sort of disease in all of them. I'd stay away from anything that is likely to become sick and weak. The spruce are really nice to have and are far better for wind breaks but they grow so much slower than the norways do. I'd take a drive and see what trees others are using in your state and go from there. This way, you'll be able to see with your own eyes whether or not you like the way it looks.
-- Pat (firstname.lastname@example.org), July 10, 2000.
Russian Olive and Ceder are excellent windbreak trees. They are very tolerent of a variety of conditions, the ceders don't lose any leaves, and are very very hardy. The Russian Olive will lose leaves, but it can take dry and wet, as well as very intense winds. They most effective windbreak I've seen involved a row of wild ceder planted at 15' apart (to form solid row), then Russian Olive, 20' apart, then ceder again. Larger trees (ceder) to the north, and smaller to the south, in your part of the word. (You can go dig up ceders that are under 18" with good results) These trees rarely require special care, except a few really good waterings until the roots get set good, about four months.
-- Marty (Mrs.PUck@excite.com), July 11, 2000.
For an ideal windbreak I would suggest a robust, fast growing deciduous tree like the Tulip tree. These get upwards of 90 feet tall over many years. But unlike poplars, they live a lot longer. Then about 15 feet ahead of them, staggered, the best growing evergreen tree for your area. That way you will get windbreak all year round, plus the benefit of the faster growing ones.
-- Ron Price (email@example.com), December 13, 2000.
Andrew-can't help you on trees for your location.Check with a conservationist from what was SCS-never can remember their new one.Or ask a forester.The suggestion of a fast growing deciduous tree or tall shrub leeward to a slow growing evergreen is a good one.
I planted hybrid poplar for the fast growing one,but I have no idea if they do well in your climate.
-- sharon wt (firstname.lastname@example.org), December 14, 2000.