For 50 years, I have been developing film, 616 and 120, using plastic reels. About 20 years ago, I started using Patterson tanks and reels. Loading 120 film has always been a tad frustrating.

Recently, I saw a remark that Stainless reels were easier to load than the plastic counterparts. It was my impression that SS reels were convenient since they were easy to dry, but I thought they were more difficult to load than plastic.

I am 3 score + 2 old. I no longer have the time to fool around if there is a way which is better and less frustrating.

I'll bet a lot of you have experience loading 120 on SS reels. Is it a picnic ?

-- Bruce Karnopp (karnopp@umich.edu), August 17, 2000

Answers

how easy was it for you to learn 35mm on SS? i believe it takes the same amount of patience. good luck, young man.

-- William Lawrence (wrlawrence@yahoo.com), August 18, 2000.

I have both types, plastic and SS. SS is the way to go! It just takes practice.

-- Gene Crumpler (nikonguy@worldnet.att.net), August 18, 2000.

I love the SS tanks for 120 and 220. They work great and are much faster to load than plastic. For some reason I haven't had any luck with 35mm SS, so I use a old Yankee tank for that. The Paterson tanks are better built than the Yankee tanks.... but the reels are harder to work with IMHO.

later,

chuck k

-- chuck k (kleesattel@msn.com), August 18, 2000.

For me, SS is fine (probably easier)for 35mm and I only use plastic (Patterson) for 120.

I've never loaded 120 on a SS reel without getting kink marks, and have only seen this rarely with plastic reels.

BUT, a lot has to do with the thickness of the film base. Verichrome Pan, for example, is the thinnest I've found. TMax 400, is at least 30% thicker. Kodak specs confirm this.

-- Charlie Strack (charlie_strack@sti.com), August 18, 2000.

A Hewes reel from B&H or Adorama is the answer to your problem, IMHO. They cost close to $20, but are worth it for hassle-free loading. If you look closely at most $5 reels, you'll notice the sides aren't parallel. Sometimes one side is even bent in towards the top. No wonder they're so hard to load! The Hewes reels are manufactured with quality control, and constructed so that once you have inserted the film under the clip, it's already starting into the spiral. Loading them is a no-brainer.

-- Brian Hinther (BrianH@sd314.k12.id.us), August 18, 2000.

I have always had better luck loading SS reels. Plastic reels on the other hand have always been a problem. In 120 I find the plastic "walk in" reels to be especially dificult. In addition with some reels that are designed for 120 or 220 use, development can be uneven. Get a good quality SS reel & practice with a expendable roll of film.Once you get the hang of it you will see what I mean. As a plus the SS reels are virtually indestructable (my newest reels are over 15 years old and work perfectly)

-- Robert Orofino (rorofino@iopener.net), August 19, 2000.

The 120 reels are very easy to load. Just bend (make film slightly curved) and get into the center and put on the spring. Then, with the reel on the table and roll the film on. Every turn, slightly pull the film back and forth to make sure you have a little "play". This way you will know the film is loading right. Take a waste roll and do it with your eyes closed and you will get the hang of it in no time! I do think the 35mm reels (Kinderman) with the little knobs to slide the sprocket holes into are easier than the spring but that is my own feelings.

-- Scott Walton (scotlynn@shore.net), August 21, 2000.

Has any one looked into using an infrared source/scope to handle B&W (except IR film)? Might be a useful tool rather than working totally by feel. The cost of the light/scope would dictate the usefulness. Or is this a high tech answer to a low tech problem?

-- Gene Crumpler (nikonguy@worldnet.att.net), August 23, 2000.

Bruce this is a hotly contested topic. I've used both and I prefer plastic. No matter how many SS reels I loaded(and I worked in a prolab with rotary nitro burst, so thousands and thousands loaded probably) I couldn't keep the crimp marks out. I'd have weeks of luck but then for no apparent reason a tell tale white waxing moon would appear. I think SS is easier to load than ratchet style plastic but I have much less crimping now. I use tanks and agit very vigorously to insure even developing. Neither is a picnic and you'll just have to try and try until you've decided for yourself.

-- trib (linhof6@hotmail.com), September 01, 2000.

This is a new question, but it is so closely related to the topic of this discussion that I'll just tack it on here.

I'm about to switch from plastic to SS, to see if that gets rid of a developing problem I've had. I'll try the Hewes reels mentioned above; they've been recommended elsewhere, too. Does anyone have recommendations on what brand of tank to get? Kinderman? Nikkor? Generic brand? Some have plastic caps, and some have SS caps. Any preference?

Thanks.

-- Warren Weckesser (weckwg@math.lsa.umich.edu), September 07, 2000.

I have SS tanks with both SS and plastic tops.......... the plastic tops don't leak, the SS tops sometimes leak a little. the plastic top baffle finally came lose and I'm planning on gluing it to repair, but that was after 15 or so years of use, so I've got no complaints there, the SS tops will never wear out that's for sure. My big decision is what glue to use on plastic top. will probably opt for "Seals All" it's made to close leaks even in gas tanks.

my spare ss single reel 35 tank is a Nikor, price on it from 15 plus years ago was $4 used...........

best of luck,

JMJ

-- John M Jones (rentavet@pathway.net), September 16, 2000.