In the Aug.-Sept. issue someone mentioned a 12-volt refrigerator. Does anyone know how, where, size cost, of these appliances?

-- Rebecca Larrabee (d-larrabee@juno.com), September 08, 2000

Answers

Hey Beck! I didn't notice the article so cannot comment on it. The units that I know about are the R.V. type. They operate on 12 vdc and/or l.p. Esentially they are doing the same thing to produce cold. An electric heat coil heats the ammonia/water solution to make it cool. The pilot light flame from gas does the same thing. If I was wanting one and didn't want to spend a fortune, check out a camper dealer. They always have used boxes that can be bought rather cheap. Just make sure they check'm out for you. I wouldn't give much over $50 for a small used one. They work well and are really cheap operating if it's run on propane. The electric heat coil uses quite a bunch of electicity. Hope this helps. Matt. 24:44

-- hoot (hoot@pcinetwork.com), September 08, 2000.

There are also 12V coolers that look like a campers ice chest but are cooled with an electronic gizmo called a thermosister. Smaller ones can even be set to heat. I have no experience with them although they are supposed to be fairly efficient I guess. Have seen them advertised new/refurbished for around $60-$70. Saw small one go $10 at an auction. Auctioneer swore up and down that it worked.

What I do know something about is the small LP refrig. Had a Dometic for several of the years I lived without electric. Did the job. Didnt use whole lot of propane. Paid $100 for it answering a shopper ad in Michigan.(Lived there eight years without electric) Spray painted it and sold it for $100 with ad here in AR (Lived couple years here without electric.) Will seem very quiet if you are used to an old rattletrap conventional refrigerator.

-- Hermit John (ozarkhermit@pleasedontspamme.com), September 09, 2000.

I had one out of an rv that ran on 12v, 110v, and lp gas. I got it for 20$ and only had to replace a couple of wires. Worked wonderfully and I used it out in my shed for extra storage, but like a dodo I sold it. I now have another one I got for free that also works on 12v, 110 and lp. It works on electirc but I haven't hooked it up to gas yet (if it'll cool on electric it'll cool on gas IF all the gas fittings, lines etc are good) because I need to find a connector and regulator for it. I really had to scrounge around and ask everyone I knew and their neighbor--literally- if they had any old rv refrigerators laying around. Most of the ones I"ve seen are pretty shabby looking, but that's easily fixed. If you find one and want to check it out on electric, which is usually the easiest way to check them, don't forget that they may take an hour or two to start to cool down. Also, if you find one that has been sitting for a long time, rock it back and forth. I was told (don't know if it's true or not!) that sometimes an air bubble will form in the coolant line and will not allow the unit to cool and if you rock it, it will dislodge the air bubble. I know that new units bought from rv suppliers or the ones they sell in Lehmans, etc go for $600 and up, with the really small models going for about $400. You might try advertising in a local paper/shopper for one.

-- Hannah Maria Holly (hannahholly@hotmail.com), September 09, 2000.

Hannah! It's true about rockin'm back and forth. Actually, the ammonia and water solution separats while settin for a spell. One should really "roll" it on it's side for a half day and then roll again. It may take a couple days to "mix" the solution back up again. Also when checkin one out on electricity and it works means the sealed system is performing as should be. The gas could still be another problem with spiderwebs and mud daubers workin overtime. These are the most efficient, quiet and cheapest operating refrigeration units made. Like you said it may take awhile for'm to cool down but once it is you are "rollin in deep clover"! Matt. 24:44

-- hoot (hoot@pcinetwork.com), September 09, 2000.

Im not sure of your Aug/Sept reference. Or the other posts here. But.

Expect to pay $749 (Planet 3.5 cu ft fridge/freezer) to $1275 (11.5 cu. ft) from Real Goods. The one draws about 1,000 watt hours/day at 900 ambient temp, the smaller one 400 watt hours. (Power use at normal room temperature will be approximately 30% less, the catalog says.)

Backwoods Solar (Sandpoint, ID) sells a different brand which is what we have. Same price range. Although we have an elaborate 12vdc system, we run this off a marine battery (trolling motor battery). Insulating the bejeebers out of it helps a lot.

This is the kind of stuff that was supposed to be dirt cheap after y2k. But if you want mine for half price---forGET it! Expensive, yes. But quiet, efficient, and I aint about to give it up! (I like cold goat milk and beer, and 12vdc, and Im willing to pay the price. And it will outlast me,)

I do like those $15 solutions, but I think this is more realistic. Jd

-- jd (jdbelanger@tds.net), September 10, 2000.

There are a number of 12volt fridges. They fall into 3 groups.

1st group is occassional fridge. This is the little beach coolers. Usually they plug into the cigarette ligher plug and keep things cool until you arrive. These do work, uses lots of power and are not designed for 24x7 use. Cost run around $150.

2nd group is for the RV/marine. These are more expensive $500-1000, but are designed for 24x7 use. They are a little better on power but still draw a good amount of power when running. They usually have only minimal insulation but will keep foods cold and usually have a small freeezer section. I have one of this type in my boat and its nice, a bit small for home use but will work as a weekend fridge.

3rd type if the PV/solar fridge. These are usually super insulated, low power consumption. These usually run $1000-2000. If power avability is an issue the way to go. These also come in several sizes and are more geared for home use.

-- Gary (gws@redbird.net), September 11, 2000.

Have to lend my limited experience with an LP frig. in an RV. Without the AC going in the RV, the most lowest temperature in the frig. was something like the 70's. I sought high and low, to only be confronted with the fact, the outside temperature (120 degrees inside an RV without AC) would have an effect on the frig. temp. Took a Solar person to make me see what my spouse had been telling me, all along. Good Luck!

-- Was Blind (butnow@isee.com), September 14, 2000.