What with the electro-mechanical nature of the Autoreflex AE mechanism, can anyone speak to how sensitive this might be to low temperatures?

-- Anonymous, December 18, 2000

Answers

Konica in -20oC in Calgary (-47oC test soon).

Hi James,

I used my Konica AR T3 and T in a open field (with temperatures -20oC before wind chill) and the AR lens and EE lenses worked fine. My camera and the lenses were REALLY cold (more like ice-cold), but still worked fine. The cable release I was using was getting frozen though from the cold, so I testify everything works fine for about an hour in -20oC (without wind chill).

We have had -49oC weather, but I wasn't going to go out and take pictures in it..haha (atleast in the 1st one we had, next one I will try out the Konica in it).

Mike Calgary, Alberta, Canada

-- Anonymous, December 18, 2000

In reply to your responce

Glad that helped you out. Cold cold weather photography is the main reason I looked into Konica in the first place since I love doing Winter photography, and where I live (in Calgary) it gets extermely cold out. I have been told the RCMP in canada used Konica's as well in the winter. I know my Nikon AF SLR camera would die out there and if not I'd go through a lot of money in $15 batteries.

Just make sure when you bring your camera in from the cold that you take all the lenses off and put each one in a seperate ZipLock bag (inc. the body as well), so the out side of the ZipLock gets the condensation NOT your lenses!

Mike.

-------------------------------------- "Thanks, Mike. That's good to know." --------------------------------------

-- Anonymous, December 18, 2000

Chilly issues

Mike,

As the rsident cold weather expert, is it best to bag the lenses in the cold, before bringing them in.

I usually just leave the camera/lenses in a closed Lowepro padded nylon case, and let the whole works warm up gradually. Does this seem OK?

-jwk-

-- Anonymous, December 18, 2000

Chilly Issues

James, Yes, the procedure you describe is the best way to go. I would also suggest keeping the lens caps on also. The problem one runs into when going from deep cold (or even mild cold) to heated is condensation forming on the cold surfaces (lens elements, lens barrels, bodies). In the far north, with many photogs, the usual procedure is to keep the bag of equipment in an unheated area at all times. This circumvents the problem going both ways. I once took my macro out in cold, wet weather from a heated area in the house. Naturally, it fogged up when I tried to use it. The ambient temp outside was around 45 degrees F with a good deal of humidity. Although at this time of year humidity is not a threat to most areas north of about Virginia, it can happen occasionally, so look out! Your best bet is to let the cameras and lenses heat up or cool down before using or bringing into the house while in the camera bag. DO NOT remove them before they are temp stabilized, usually an hour or two. BTW, this applies to film as well. Your biggest problem as far as film goes (and I had this happen on a couple of occasions), is that as the temp drops below about 10 F, the film becomes a great deal less flexible. There is a great danger of it becoming so brittle it will "strip" out the sprocket holes while winding on for the next exposure. Not only does this make for ratty film frame issues, but also leaves a bunch of pieces of film (very hard while frozen, like chunks of steel) that can seriously damage your shutter or, as happened to me, get into the film wind. These are hell to clean out, folks, so take it easy when winding film in below-freezing weather. AND despite the relatively smooth nature of the FS-1 and FT-1 film winds, the film can unexpectedly break while winding. Stop immediately if you suspect this has happened. Yes, I have used the FS-1 in less than balmy weather. It works just fine. The weak link, of course, is the battery power. There is an auxiliary battery pack with cord to keep in a pocket, or you can simply remove the battery pack on the camera between shots. Still, the batteries will lose power quickly. Keep a spare set at all times inside your clothes, next to your body, where they will keep warm. When the original set dies, switch. Save the old set as they will be fine when warmed up again. Well, that's all the cold-weather stuff I can think of right now. If I recall some more of my learning-curve gaffes, I'll post them here.

Jon from Deepinaharta, Georgia PS: Film suffers from condensation, too. Do the same with it as your camera gear to prevent spots on your developed negs or slides.

-- Anonymous, December 19, 2000

Chilling Out

Jon,

Thanks, from what I see on the news, you're able t put all this into good effect right now!

-jwk-

in sunny Oregon

-- Anonymous, December 20, 2000

Temp Sensitivity

James, I have, for over 25 years, used a lot of cameras at less than optimum temps, including old, old leaf-shutter folders. None failed in moderate use. Some, after more than three hours in temps of between 10F and -15F did fail due to freezing lube. The worst I did to my Konica T-3 was using it in temps of -16F with high winds in the winter of 1978-79. No problems, especially since I had learned to wind on the film very carefully to prevent breakage and static electricity streaks. In olden days, when mechanical cameras were king, it used to be standard procedure to have a camera "winterized". What wasn't said was that this was necessary only in instances where one expected to be rather constantly in below-freezing circumstances, like an expedition to the North Pole, or photographing the effects of the Tunguska Phenomenon in high winter. Unless one is looking at a trip to very cold environs with no prospect of steady warm storage of gear, winterizing is really not needed. If you do have problems, one of three things happened. 1)the wrong lubricant was used in the camera, 2)the camera needs lubing really bad, or 3)moisture was allowed to condense inside the camera and froze on the mechanisms. Even in bitter cold circumstances (below -20F), I can foresee no problems using a non-winterized Konica T or A series camera. Your biggest problem then would be getting at the shutter-release button with those heavy mittens on.:-)

Jon from Deepinaharta, Georgia

-- Anonymous, December 19, 2000

Christmas Lights

Jon,

In our first (and probably only) snow this year, I was outdoors shooting the lights. Temp ws in the mid-20s. Using my FS-1. Near the end of the roll, the mirror went up, and that was it. Shutter didn't fire. I brought the camera inside and set it on the shelf in my office. ~20 minutes later - click - the shutter completed its job. I'd guess this was a battery chill down.

In high-schol, I was the school photog. Shooting yearbook oictures with a Yashica-Mat (that dates me) I had it freeze up at about 5 degrees farenheit.

-jwk-

-- Anonymous, December 20, 2000

Christmas Lights

James, Yeah, that's what it was. Until the batteries warmed up, the camera couldn't finish its cycle. I suppose the most foolish thing I ever did with a camera in winter was on a road trip to Dawson City in January. If I remember correctly, the temp was somewhere in the high - (minus)20'sF with a high wind (in that part of the continent it's always a high wind, it never really stops). I was using an old Kodak 1A Pocket folder to take wide photos of the landscape (all white, naturally). I was out there for over 2 hours, not really paying all that much attention (I was bred for the cold, back then) to my camera or my feet and fingers. Needless to say, the camera was a block of ice (the bellows shattered when I accidentally bumped it with my nearly frozen hand) as were my feet and hands. I managed to avoid frostbite, barely, although it did affect the nerves on the ends of my fingers for quite some time. Got lousy photos, too. Forgot to compensate for the loss of sensitivity in the film due to the cold. Ahh, foolish youth!! The best part was having to wait for the tripod and camera to "melt" enough to take them apart.

Jon from Deepinaharta, Georgia

-- Anonymous, December 20, 2000