Split Toning Forte Polygrade Warmtonegreenspun.com : LUSENET : B&W Photo - Printing & Finishing : One Thread
I'm new to Forte's polygrade warmtone paper, and am trying it because of its great reputation for being easy to tone. I want to try some things like split toning and using multiple toners, some of which affect low values first and some high values first. Just thought some of you might be able to save me some time. First tries with Kodak Rapid Selenium toner are taking the whole thing from no toning to pinkish very rapidly...I'm using it at 1:10. Looks like I will have to go lots more dilute, and wondering if anybody can suggest how dilute, and save me some time...since I don't think anybody will do my day job and give me more time to swim in selenium...Thanks!
-- John Sarsgard (firstname.lastname@example.org), January 08, 2001
If you want to use the toner that strong you will get fast changes almost every time. One way around it, without going much more dilute (1: 40 or more) is to immerse the print in the toner and then immediatly put it into a tray of clean water at about 40 degrees farenheit. It will still tone, but much more slowly. This can also be used to help gain control if you are reexpsing paper in Sabattier printing. Toning in more than one type of toner works well and you will have to test & see how it does for you, and in what sequence you need to get the results you want. Gold toner after selenium gives different results. Sepia, Viradon or others can be used as well. Whatever you do, keep good notes so you can try to repeat the results you like. Use distilled water to get rid of the variables, as well as the mineral and chemical contamination that can come with tap water. Try warm & cold water for the toners & see how it works for you. Try brushing toner on very small areas, much like one may do with ferricyanide, to control the toning as much as possible. There is a lot of leeway with some toning. With the Forte papers you have a product that takes toners well. But it also goes a lot faster than you want at times unless you are a careful worker. Toner directions are only a starting point, not a commandment. Experiment & see what happens. Make 10 identical prints & then experiment with them & see where the toning takes you. But again, keep good notes or you will end up wiht one great print that you can't match again.
-- Dan Smith (email@example.com), January 10, 2001.
Dan, thanks for all the good tips. The dip in strong toner followed by water bath in intriguing....when you've finally got it just how you want it, how do you stop the toning quickly? Also, I assume you wouldn't agitate in the water bath, so as not to disperse the toner? Thanks again.
-- John Sarsgard (firstname.lastname@example.org), January 11, 2001.
I have had very similar experiences with Forte Polywarm tone. It can be an absolute pig to tone in selenium. I found it gave me red tones in the shadows and little or nothing in the midtones & hightlights. I would endorse the other respondant's recommendation and dialute as much as you can. Other interesting effects with this paper are
Agfa Viradon (polysulphide toner) - 1:50 a rich chocolate brown 1:100 a rather nice plummy brown going chocolate after about 15 minutes. This toner requires post toning in an 10% sodium sulphite solution. Also it stinks so make sure you ventilate effectively.
Tetenal Gold toner - If developed in Ilford PQ a rather nice steel blue after 3 minutes
If developed in Tetenal Eukobrom - a rahter subtle slate grey/blue after about 10 minutes.
-- Adrian Twiss (email@example.com), January 23, 2001.