another electric fence questiongreenspun.com : LUSENET : Countryside : One Thread
Help! I am installing an electric fence around a 50' chicken yard, which already has a 6' fence all the way around. I know I have to buy the 1 mile charger and the roll of wire and the insulators. What else do I need? Can the insulators be attached to trees in some corners? Can anyone give me a simple step by step procedure on installing this fencing? It's to keep out coyote, so I know I have to electrify every other strand of wire, so the climbing predator will stay grounded. What is a ground rod? What is copper used for in this process? Please explain also, how to avoid the gate if I want to skip over the entrance. It seems so intimidating to install....Thanks!!PS) WHat is hog paneling?
-- Michele Rae Padgett (michelesmelodyfarm@Yahoo.com), May 10, 2001
The fence charger you buy will have installation instructions with it. From my readings, the most common problem in getting the proper charge on a fence is improper grounding. The higher the voltage, the more grounding which is needed. For example, by 10,000 volt charge requires three 8' grounding rods placed ten feet apart connected with heavy-duty copper wire. Grounding rods are 8' long, 1/2" diameter, galvanized rods. To sink mine I dig a hole several inches deep, then use a t-post driver while standing on a stepladder. When they are driven as far as possible, a sledge hammer takes over until they are below ground level. They are connected to the copper wire with a special clamp. (Just about any place with sells hardware supplies should have the rods, clamps and wire.) Copper is used because it causes the least amount a galvanization for dissimilar metals. Go out to your power pole and you will see an example.
You don't need to electify every other stand. You can do them all. Contact with the ground or other fencing serves as the ground.
Generally going under a gate is more efficient than over it. A special plastic coated wire is made for this.
Corners present a problem in that the most strain will be there. Here you might want to use a special insulator made for that purpoe.
It is really not that difficult - hey, if I can do it...
While supplies can be obtained locally, I like Jeffers (800-JEFFERS).
Hog panels are 16' long, 4' high made of about 1/8" galvanized wire.
-- Ken S. in WC TN (email@example.com), May 10, 2001.
Ken just curious..... any advantage to having the ground clamp(s) underground?
-- Rick K (firstname.lastname@example.org), May 11, 2001.
I have been corrected. Hog/livestock panes are 16' x 52" with 1/4" wire.
I put my grounding underground so I don't hit them with the lawnmower. A trench about 6" deep with three groundrods ten feet apart. But, remember, I'm running a 10,000 volt system. When they get shocked, I want them to know it, and, price-wise, not that much more expensive. Smaller charges may not require three groundrods. I do not recommend rebar due to rusting.
-- Ken S. in WC TN (email@example.com), May 12, 2001.