We needed a new water pump for our old International tractor that we finally were able to buy about two years ago.

Husband checked with a big tractor place and they told him it would be about $160. We had to wait a few months and then came up with the money and he went to get it....but they told him who ever he talked with before must have been NUTS because they said the tractor part was $360.00!!!! He was really UPSET to say the least!

So he came home and started calling other places. Several didn't have the part we needed but all kept recomending a farm equipment place just over the line in another county. So he called them and they had one water pump and they put his name on it and he drove up to get it the next day. It was something like $170!!!

After he had it and had paid for it he told them the story of the other equipment place and then finally how much they wanted to charge!

The new place said the other place must not have had any customers that day and needed to make all their profit at once or something!

He had taken the old water pump with him and both the pump they tried to sell him for more than $300 and the one that was $170 were identical and made by the same company!!!

So that just shows you REALLY REALLY need to shop around when hunting things for the homestead!!!!

-- Suzy in Bama (slgt@yahoo.com), May 23, 2001

Answers

Response to We almost got treated on tractor part!

There is a sad side to this also, unless your water pump housing or impeller is cracked, you usually can have them rebuilt at any competent machine shop for about 1/4 or 1/3 of replacement price. It is the bronze bushing that wears out; which can be pressed out and replaced. Also your thread stated that"you allmost got treated" I'll bet your fingers meant to type "cheated".

-- mitch hearn (moopups1@aol.com), May 23, 2001.

Response to We almost got treated on tractor part!

Mitch- Thanks for passing along that tidbit of info. I purchased a 1949 Ford 8N last winter and just started using it a few weeks ago to mow. Now I am starting to discover just how badly I was "treated" by the seller! Actually, I love the tractor, and it seems to run pretty well so far, but it's all the little things I am coming across, such as the hydraulics which apparently leak; the wheel that is leaking grease or oil, or something- from the hub, it appears- I haven't had time to look into that yet. The gear box on the mower which is leaking. Brakes don't work too well. But, it's a learning curve- next time I'll know better what to check for. It does help to have access to more experienced tractor owners through this forum- I will definitely ask here before I start spending a lot of money on parts and repairs.

-- Elizabeth (ekfla@aol.com), May 23, 2001.

Response to We almost got treated on tractor part!

Elizabeth, I think it is a fact of life that any tractor that's 50+ years old will have a few problems! Some things are not too serious, an oil leak might be no more than unsightly provided you replenish wherever it is coming from. However if you have a rear hub leak (and I guess it must be the rear hub?) don't let excess oil stay in contact with the tyre as it will destroy the rubber, not immediately but over a few months.

-- john hill (john@cnd.co.nz), May 24, 2001.

Response to We almost got treated on tractor part!

Elizabeth, on that leaking gear box, drain it, check for loose bolts, look at the seal; is it ripped or dry, if so plan on replacing it. Jack up the mower to see it,PLACE A CHAIN OVER A LARGE TREE LIMB AND SECURE THE MOWER, do not craw under it with only a jack in place. Mowers weigh up to 2000 pounds, and no body likes mower, people, and earth sandwiches. Remove any vines or debris that is wound around the mowers shaft and keep it cleaned. The vines, ect. can destroy the seals. Put the drain plug back in and then add two tubes of chassie grease, the thick stuff you normally put into grease guns and one bottle of regular gear oil. Go mow light stuff for an hour or so, then fill the gearbox to its normal level with gear oil. The theory is that the grease gets hot, forms to the inside shaft and helps seal the bottom seal. Adjust your mower so that the front deck is at the desired mowing height, raise the back of the deck as high as possible to help the grass exit. While your under there, have a second person jam a metal rod through the U joint on the pto shaft to hold it still while you use a (two) handheld grinder to sharpen the cutting edge. Inspect the large bolts that hold on the blade tips. The style of blade tips that pivot do wear out and are occasionally thrown from the mower, if neglected too long.

-- mitch hearn (moopups1@aol.com), May 24, 2001.