I developed 4 rolls of Kodak T-max film.

and one has a purple/blue color to it.

Did I not fix this one long enough?

The negative is dry (did it 2 days ago)

Can I re-fix it? or should I leave it as-is.

thanks

-- Pete (gregarpp@icqmail.com), July 03, 2001

Answers

Kodak's data sheet suggests if there is a magenta cast to the negatives, they may not have been completely fixed. A slight cast can be removed with hypo clearing agent, but a heavier cast requires re- fixing.

Since you say it is purplish/blue, I'm not sure if this is what you are seeing, or if it is the anti-halation dye/coating, but I'd try re- fixing in fresh fixer followed by HCA.

If this was the last roll you processed using the same batch of fixer, it is probably incomplete fixing. TMax films exhaust fixer faster than traditional emulsions. Try soaking in distilled water

-- Charlie Strack (charlie_strack@sti.com), July 03, 2001.

Sounds like inadequate fixing, Pete. TMX is highly prone to that with its heavy antihalation dye. Refixing the film will solve the problem. Just fix and rewash.

In the future, you might want to get TF-4 fixer from The Photographer's Formulary. It seems to clear the dye from Tmax films better than other fixers.

-- Ted Kaufman (writercrmp@aol.com), July 03, 2001.

Kodak recommends Rapid Fix with continuous agitation for T-MAX films. As stated by the others, re-fixing your film with fresh fixer should solve the problem. The manufacturer of your fixer should publish information on the exhaustion rate of the fixer when used with T-MAX films. Never use the same fixer working solution for both film and paper. Use of an acid stop bath will prolong the fixer life.

-- Michael Feldman (mfeldman@qwest.net), July 03, 2001.

I use the Kodak rapid fix with hardner for this..

mixed full strength..

It says 2-4min..

maybe I took it out early.. I don't remmeber :)

-- Pete (gregarpp@icqmail.com), July 03, 2001.

But was it fresh? If you mixed 8 oz (or whatever quantity), then fixed 4 rolls of film consecutively, the fixer might have been close to exhaustion.

Or, did you fix all 4 rolls simultaneously? If so, were all 4 rolls covered with solution? (You actually have to look in the tank; the measurements indicated on some tanks won't actually be enough!)

If you describe your process and how each of the 4 rolls was handled, you'll either figure it out yourself as you try to describe it, or give us enough info to figure it out.

-- Charlie Strack (charlie_strack@sti.com), July 03, 2001.

I mixed 1 gallon total I have 1 35mm tank (one roll) and 1 4X5 daylight tank.

I was doing one tank of 4X5 and 35mm at a time. (then would reload both and start again)

the 4X5 had 7.5min devel and the 35mm 9min develope (per instructions)

so I think somewhere the last roll of 35mm film got less then normal fix. I just wondered if it was safe to "re-fix" the 35mm.

I have ran 35 sheets of 4X5 and 10 rolls of 35mm through a gallon of full strength, freshly mixed fix. I don't think it should be going bad...

although I did notice my D-76 getting a little gray. I use this at stock solution and pour back into the gallon jug.

-- Pete (gregarpp@icqmail.com), July 03, 2001.

Charlie wrote: "Kodak's data sheet suggests if there is a magenta cast to the negatives.....".
If there's a magenta cast? IF? I haven't developed a single roll of Tmax that DIDN'T have a magenta cast yet. It doesn't matter how fresh the fixer is, or how long it's fixed for. The only thing that gets rid of it for me is a Sulphite HCA bath.
I'm drawn to the conclusion that tap water quality has a lot to do with whether this stain gets washed away, or not. We have the peculiar combination of very soft water with a high alkalinity (pH 8.5) here, and I'm sure that's why I can't get rid of the magenta dye. Whether it's a sensitizing dye, or an antihalation layer might be a matter of debate, but the fact that it's a PITA is a certainty.

-- Pete Andrews (p.l.andrews@bham.ac.uk), July 04, 2001.

I would refix. It can't hurt anything.

-- sassy (sassafrassy@geocities.com), July 04, 2001.

I refixed it this weekend..

problem solved...

thanks everyone!!!!

-- Pete (gregarpp@icqmail.com), July 05, 2001.

Pete: Yes, well the TMax I've developed has always had a cast too it, also, & my water is a bit alkalike, too. (At least that's what the water district's annual reports say.)

But I've given up on TMax films, and haven't done that many, so that's why I quoted the Kodak info.

Best regards, Charlie

-- Charlie Strack (charlie_strack@sti.com), July 05, 2001.

Anyone have a similar problem with Neopan 100SS? I fixed for 10 minutes in fresh fixer then a hypo clear, looked at the negs and they were purple. So I loaded again and fixed for another 10 minutes and hypo cleared again. Still purple.

They printed out OK, but it's annoying.

Any thoughts?

-- Mitch Winkle (mwinkle@jonatas.com), July 17, 2001.

Mitch, My negatives from Fuji Neopan 100 are also purple, and they were properly fixed, too. It seems that is simply the base color of the film. The color did not affect the printing at all. In fact, it's a very nice film.

Fuji's new film, Acros, has a distinct blue-green base color. And for the little bit I've used it, I've been mightily impressed with it. The Acros tint seems to matter not at all, either.

-- Ted Kaufman (writercrmp@aol.com), July 17, 2001.

Mitch, My negatives from Fuji Neopan 100 are also purple, and they were properly fixed, too. It seems that is simply the base color of the film. The color did not affect the printing at all. In fact, it's a very nice film.

Fuji's new film, Acros, has a distinct blue-green base color. And for the little bit I've used it, I've been mightily impressed with it. The Acros tint seems to matter not at all, either.

-- Ted Kaufman (writercrmp@aol.com), July 17, 2001.