how do i install board and batten siding. i need to know things such as type of nails and what kind of protective coating i should use.thanks don

-- (donschwartz2002@yahoo.com), August 16, 2001

Answers

First of all use galvanized nails so they do not rust. That also prevents the ugly rust streaks we have all seen on buildings. Ask your lumber yard/hardware store which size of nails would be correct for the thickness of board used. They will recommend the right size of siding nails for you.

As far as a coating goes, having been a painter for 11 years, I would suggest oil stain. It covers well and does not crack, chip, peel etc. like regular paint. The main drawback being that it needs another coat every 5 years or so, but preparation time is minimal when re-staining. Some people also prefer a clear sealer,which is nice if your wood is attractive. It also works well in most situations. Stain goes on much faster than paint and usually is cheaper.

Good luck with your project. Feel free to e-mail me if you have any further questions.

-- Bob in WI (bjwick@hotmail.com), August 16, 2001.

I learned a few things by building a barn and a seven-room

house in board and batten.

The advice to use galvanized nails is good. I'd try to buy the boards directly from a sawmill, if there is one nearby. Go for oak, rather than pine, if the price is not too high. Store it properly, even if you will be using it in a few days. days. Summer sun will warp or check the boards. Make a stack sixght boardfs side on other scrap wood to hold it off the ground. Too wide, and yoou can't reach the center boards conveaniently. Place small cross pieces as wide as the stack and about an inch thick to let air circulate and this will help keep ssssssssssboards from warping.Do not cover it in summertime. You want the mosture to evaporate, down to about 15 percent, if possible.

Don't be afraid to use green (uncured) lumber. It is cheaper and sperforms well, if there are anough nails in it and especially if it can dry from both sides of the wall.

Stain is nice for a finish. sUse care not to get a shade too dark.

Raw linseed oil, cut with denatured alcohol makes a nice finish but it takes sthree coats and must be refreshed every three years (in my climate). Please considered it as a floor finish. Our Kentucky Amish use it and if you have never seen a well done Amish-maintained floor, you have a treat coming. It is cheaper even than stain, per coat.Ask your paint merchant to explain the application and cautiond not to breathe the fumes (that come with all good paint products).

Most boards are cut by sawmills one-inch thick. I saved a bundle by finding a mill that would saw one-half inch thick boards. True, they will weather pretty thin in 70 or 80 years, but by then you will have grandson who need to learn the skill.

I would try for battens out of the same wood as the boards. Wait until the boards are seasoned, because you may be surprised at the shrinkage.It is no problem however.

-- Gordon Crump (hermit@duo-county.com), August 16, 2001.

Take Gordon's advice regarding shrinkage. My barn was built out of green wood, board and batten, and after drying I now have 1/4" gaps between the boards, and the battens are falling off. I am eventually going to have to replace the battens with much wider ones to cover the gaps.

-- Elizabeth (ekfla@aol.com), August 16, 2001.

Galvanized nails are not appropriate for some woods. Something in cedar (Juniperus) will eat the galvanization off. Around here, they put regular nails in cedar.

-- charles (clb@dixienet.com), August 16, 2001.

Not an answer, But a question. I'm putting 1'x 8" Board and Batten Hemlock siding on my new pole barn and I need to know how many nails per board across the width should I use.

-- JAMES CODY (BALOOGABILL@YAHOO.COM), February 19, 2002.