4 filters

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If you could only afford 3-4 gel filters (for outdoor B&W ruinscapes, landscapes, closeups & occasional portraits), which filters would they be?

-- Wayne (wsteffen@skypoint.com), February 18, 2002

Answers

A # 15 orange, a # 25 red, A #12 Yellow, a # 8 yellow. If I can add one more it would be a polarizer. If not I would delete the # 8 yellow.

I would use gel filters in the calumet cardboard frames and the kalt holder. Bob

-- Bob Moulton (bobmargaretm@insightbb.com), February 18, 2002.


Wayne,

A good set for black and white would be a yellow #8, a dark yellow to orange such as a yellow #15 or a little stronger, a yellow-green, and a red #25. Some people use the yellow-green with black and white film for portraits. I think that this set would cover most of your needs. It will be interesting to read what others suggest.

-- Dave Karp (davekarp@ix.netcom.com), February 18, 2002.


#9, #11, #23A, #44A.

-- William Marderness (wmarderness@hotmail.com), February 18, 2002.

I have what appears to be a filter holder of some type from a process camera lens shade. It will attach to most of my lenses with 3 plastic tipped screws. It has two tracks on the outside, where the 3 inch process camera filters went, I presume, and I just need to glue a ridge of something along the bottom edge to keep the filters in (because the bottom part that the filters must have rested on was part of the shade, which I removed). Since I'm on a budget I'm gonna try this, and I think it should work fine. I've checked and cant see it through the gg corners with my widest lens.

-- Wayne (wsteffen@skypoint.com), February 18, 2002.

I think the decision re what filters depends upon your subjects. If its typical landscapes, you MIGHT want to stay in the yellow-red region since the typical landscape filtration is to render normal skies. However, in many ways, I think a combination of a yellow (12 or 15), deep red (25), green (47) and blue (58) is hard to beat. The tri-color filters are great ways to control local contrast, which I think is what filters should be used for. The three filters would allow you to tackle most local contrast issues - they also have the same factor (if memory serves me right). The 15 yellow would be good for typical landscape kinds of application. Like I said, depends on the subjects you like shooting, but given the kinds of subjects you have indicated above, the tri-color set might be worth considering. Cheers, DJ.

-- N Dhananjay (dhananjay-nayakankuppam@uiowa.edu), February 18, 2002.


I do very few typical landscapes, maybe a rare one with sky, but more likely fog. I rarely photograph green vegetation (but maybe I will more, with filters). Mostly closeups, abstracts, rocks, metal, alleys, ruins, junk, wood is what I do. And I want to do more natural light portraits. I dont need filters for most of this. But I'd like to do some clouds, which is what got me thinking filters. Since I knew I'd want something to darken the sky, I figured I might as well order whatever else might come in handy someday, but keep it to a bare minimum since I've gotten by shooting occasional B&W for years without any filters at all

-- Wayne (wsteffen@skypoint.com), February 18, 2002.

Four filters...wasn't that a Led Zeppelin song on IV?

The Lee black and white set of four inch gels sounds perfect for you. It's cheap and contains numbers 8, 11, 21 and 23A. Like Bob said, I would add a polarizer.

-- Chad Jarvis (cjarvis@nas.edu), February 18, 2002.

I find the #8 yellow to be too weak to really be useful. I would start with a #12 yellow as the minimum, then add #15 deep yellow and #25 red filters so this way you get a good range with the least number of filters and the fouth would be a #13 green to enhance foliage when needed.

-- Jeffrey Scott (jscott@datavoice.net), February 18, 2002.

if you can only afford 4 gelatin filters do yourself a favor and just start with 2 high quality optical resin filters (Sinar, Lee or Hitech, not Cokin). A number 12 yellow and a # 25 red. You will quickly find how easily damaged gel filters are. They are basically disposable items for all but the most occasional photographer. better yet if you can find a set of Series IX glass filters that will be an even better investment.

-- Ellis Vener Photography (ellis@ellisvener.com), February 18, 2002.

My vote would be red, green, orange, yellow (the appropriate numbers escape me at the moment). On the rare occasion that I use a filter for a photograph, it's almost certainly one of these.

-- David Munson (apollo@luxfragilis.com), February 18, 2002.


After switching to TMX in 4 x 5 and getting a better understanding of the zone system, I haven't really touched my filters. I do have a #8, #15, #25, #25, UV, and a circular polarizer. I do mainly landscapes as well.

-- Mark Wiens (mark@wiens.com), February 19, 2002.

After switching to TMX in 4 x 5 and getting a better understanding of the zone system, I haven't really touched my filters. I do have a #8, #15, #25, #29, UV, and a circular polarizer. I do mainly landscapes as well.

-- Mark Wiens (mark@wiens.com), February 19, 2002.

Hi Wayne

I would take a 1.polarizer 2.strong yellow 3. red 25 4.yellow-green. But I would only buy class filters anyway the are for a lifetime!

Good luck.

-- Armin Seeholzer (armin.seeholzer@smile.ch), February 19, 2002.


K2, G, A, and X1. (Does my age show?)

-- Bill Mitchell (bmitch@home.com), February 19, 2002.

>K2, G, A, and X1. (Does my age show?)

Naw, I remember those names (though not what they mean) from when I was a little kid playing in my dads darkroom, much longer ago than I care to admit.

I was able to decipher up everything but the "A". 23A?

there seems to be mostly general agreement on the most useful filters. William, I'm curious what you are doing with that 44A.

-- Wayne (wsteffen@skypoint.com), February 20, 2002.



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