At an indoor family event, I found myself without film faster than 100 ASA, and no flash. My bad. I exposed several shots on TMAX 100 at 400 ASA, intending to push when I developed it.

Unfortunately, I didn't finish the role, and I and saw an opportunity to take some outdoor candids the next day, which was very sunny. In order to isolate the subjects from the background, I shot with a wide aperture, and found it necessary to set the camera's film speed adjustment back to 100 ASA.

What developer/dilution/time should I use to maximize the likelihood of getting usable negs from all the exposures. Higher contrast in the outdoor images would be acceptable.

Aric

-- Aric Rothman (generalpurpose@hotmail.com), May 20, 2002

Answers

Well, you're bound to lose some quality of course! I would suggest using Tmax developer (which has the same recommended dev times for 100 and 200), and then using it at 24C, since the dev times are closer for 100/200 and 400 than they are at 20C. I would then try and bisect the time for 100/200 and 400.

Does anyone have any better suggestions?

-- Ed Hurst (BullMoo@hotmail.com), May 20, 2002.

Aric,

Try Diafine, which is manufactured by Acufine. It is a 2 bath developer, and it normally allows you to shoot at a higher speed. The shots taken at the lower speed will have more density, but should print well.

-- Dave Karp (davekarp@ix.netcom.com), May 20, 2002.

It sounds like you have only one part of the roll exposed differently. I guess you could load it on the reel such that the part exposed at 100 asa will be on the outer most portion of the reel. (ie the part that will show density earliest in the development)

Inspect (briefly) under a green safelight when the time for 100 asa is up, cut the roll after you see the last frame with a faint immage and continue with the development for the 400 portion. Immediately stop the part exposed at 100, then procede to the fixer. Of course you run the risk of fogging the roll.

-- Eric (everheul@cnetech.com), May 20, 2002.