Climbing Diamond couloir or Ice window in February??

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Hi,

We are two rock and ice climber from Québec, Canada planning a trip on Mt Kenya for climbing, if in shape enough, Diamond couloir or Ice window.

What are the most recent know conditions ? What kind of weather did you get in the last few weeks ?

Thanks a lot for the information you will send us.

Your's truly,

Pierre

-- Pierre Bergeron (pbergeron_altus@hotmail.com), January 05, 2003

Answers

Thanks a lot for the information,

We will probably have a look at the Ice window and we will probably do some rock route. We plan to have some flexibility in our objectives.

Hope to me you in Nairobi or Mt Kenya.

Your's truly,

Pierre

-- Pierre Bergeron (Pbergeron_altus@hotmail.com), January 14, 2003.


The Diamond couloir at this time of the year is extremely unlikely, three weeks ago there were large sections of it missing, and I shouldn't think it will get better until May/June time. The ice window route is not looking too good either, though doable, it won't be ice all the way. The only ice route in condition at this time is Pt John couloir an easy 4 pitch route, it's still fun though.

I'd go for the rock routes on the Diamond buttress if I were you. Weather at the moment is not great, still raining (el nino maybe). Hopefully it will dry up by February.

-- Will Frost (w.frost@cgiar.org), January 06, 2003.


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