My husband and I would like to climb Batian via the SW Ridge in December. However, we are concerned about crossing the Gate of Mists to Nelion for the descent (since we will not ascend the Normal route, we cannot leave a fixed rope as recommended.)

Cameron Burn's book mentions a possible descent route off the Souther Slabs. Has this been established? Is there another good descent route in December? If not, will we require crampons to ascend the Nelion from the Gate of Mists?

We are also interested in climbing at Hell's Gate. Your site mentions some climbing restrictions? Are those still in place?

Thank you.

-- Sophia (sophia_scott@post.harvard.edu), October 05, 2003